Oregon Cycling Magazine

by Ellee Thalheimer

Shame, shame on me and my narcissism to assume that a bike culture—similar the one I’m so proud of in my Portland community—would not be found in Veracruz, Mexico. Like tortillas to an egg and bean lunch, the bicycle is an inseparable part of the day to day Mexican life. The bici is used in countless invaluable ways in commerce and transportation. And why not? It’s cheap and utilitarian. However, there’s also a biting stigma attached to this fine invention which is generally not found in the States, and especially not in Portland, Oregon (one of the few places where picking up a first date on a bike can be totally hot). In Mexico, riding a bike signifies that you don’t have enough money to buy a car. Many times, it’s embarrassing and can be humiliating.

Enter: Cafécletos. It’s a Spanish word that mixes the words café (coffee) and bicicleta (bicycle), and it’s the name of an active bicycle club in Xalapa, Mexico which was started four years ago by Reubén Hernández Contrera, one of the five bike messengers in the city. They like to ride. They like to drink coffee. But they also are very present in the community fighting for cyclists’ rights, safety, and bicycle-friendly development. I had the opportunity and pleasure of mountain biking and hanging out with two important members of the Cafécletos:

Rául Reynoso Rodrigéz, one of the only bicycle guides in the area, was born and raised in Xalapa and is rare breed here in Mexico. He fell in love with his bike a couple of years ago because of the sanctuary and freedom it provided. Since then, he has been inspired to better the crap treatment of cyclists in the city as well as to dispel the stigma around cycling. He formally and informally talks to politicians, students, taxi drivers or whoever will listen about the need to respect cyclists and to support cycling infrastructure. FYI: doing this is not in style or common. As he rides by other bicycle commuters, sometimes he yells, “Esto es poder, amigos!” “Now this is power, friends!” He’s extremely cute when he does this.

Roy Dudley, originally from the States, has lived here happily married to a Xalopeña for 35 years. He’s a tour guide, photographer, an active member in the Rotary Club, and he can tear it up downhill mountain biking. Gringo loco. He is a pivotal member in the organization and, as he cycles in group rides, he acts as a SAG vehicle with a trailer attached to his bike toting all the necessities. He also is like a papa-bici in that he jovially gives out educational safety flyers and makes sure everyone has a light for the night rides.

And they are just two of the many interesting characters found in the 30-some active Cafécleto gang—which has subsections like the Rucocletos, the over-50 crowd, and (my fave) the Bici-ellas, for all the ladies in the house.

To my very good luck, Roy and Rául brought me to a Día de Los Muertos Cafécletos night ride. Families, bike lovers, students etc. came out from the seams of this bustling Mexican city, some in costumes and some with decorated bikes, to ride for the fun of it, for the community of it, and to help change the mentality around what it means to be a cyclist. While riding one of Roy’s bikes (he’s over six feet tall) that didn’t really shift, and wearing his riding jacket that swallowed me, I felt so blessed and privileged to experience this ride. For the first time since I had been in Mexico, I felt at home. The exhilarating and united camaraderie of riding in a bicycle parade is universal.

Here in Xalapa, they have a lot to go up against—I mean a lot—and little resources with which to do it. Still, the Cafécleto community is growing and the core group of organizers is strong and determined (I’d steal Rául away to Portland if Xalapa didn’t need him so badly). To be a part of the Cafécleto community and to see them scraping for every little wisp of progress was an inspiration. It made me realize that the good fight is being fought in places I would never have imagined, with persistence and love. Maybe, just maybe, this crazy world of ours has a chance. !Andales, Cafécletos!

If you get sick of the rain, Roy and Rául can coordinate fantastic bike tours through the gorgeous, as yet untouristed areas surrounding Xalapa. For more info, go to www.veracruzenbicicleta.com (email raulreynosorodriguez@yahoo.com.mx) or to www.xalaparoy.com.

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